beacons beach - leucadia state park - surfing web site
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Epic Wave at Secret Spot Ridden By Chuckie

beacons beach - leucadia state park - surfing web site
Photo by Bob

Surfer Chuck screaming down a 22 foot face at Secret Break, near Beacon's.  Locals claim it was the biggest wave ridden in a decade near the mythical Beacon's location.

How I Rode This Beast (and lived to speak of it)
When interviewed about how he made this wave, Chuck, took a deep breath, recaptured the moment, then responded, "I study this break year round, I train year round, I am one with my board. It was a typical California day, but the offshore buoys were off the chart.  I called in sick to work and paddled out."

I Made It Up And Over 30 Waves
"I saw this set of waves coming in from just off  Catalina Island, I scrambled for the horizon.  I made it up and over 30 waves, each one bigger than the wave I paddled up and over.  Finally, I saw this baby.  It was beautiful.  An inviting moment of pleasure which would culminate my years of preparedness."

Curled My Toes, Grabbed My Balls...
"I paddled under the arching peak, pointed my board, curled my toes, grabbed my balls and proceeded.  I transcended the moment.  I experienced freedom. I found the soul of surfing in that one wave.  And, even though it was etched in my mind forever, a photographer captured my ride.  I was going to beat the photog up, until I knew what the roll contained. Gawd, if I never catch another wave again, I will have found the meaning of life."

What Was Chuck's Secret?
When asked the secret of how he made the wave, Chuck responded, without hesitation, "I bought a soda from "Kenzie's Kafe across the street from Beacon's.  It was potent and Kenz used her special surfer formula to help me conquer the wave."

The Photographer Who Took The Picture... And Lived To Tell The Story
The angle of this shot, taken by his buddy Bob, tends to make the wave look smaller than it actually is.  Bob was banished, from surfing this secret break, by the local because he made this wave look so small.  Then the tribe of Beacon's reaccepted him as they knew he had actually protected the secret.

More pictures on Surfer Chuck. (Hey, he took the surfing photo's so he gets more surfing pictures.)

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