beacons beach - leucadia state park - surfing web site
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A Mike Tyson Attitude in a Barney Fife Body.

Dave is a year round surfer at Beacon’s.  I once heard someone describe him this way, “Dave is a Mike Tyson attitude in a Barney Fife body.”  When you have a little bit of ‘tude on land, and in the water, you get described that way…

Dave was riding a 6 foot face which was ready to close out.  He prepared to drop his board down the face, then rocket back up to eject.  Dave probably was going to do a basic ‘step on the tail and let your board go over the back of the wave and hold on’ move. 

As he rushed up the face, the wave was closing quicker than he anticipated, so he was getting ready to propel over the lip and let his board go in the whitewater cavity. He used his board as a diving spring board, bending his knees and pushing off his stick, leaping as high as he could.  As he leaped up and almost over the lip, the force of the falling wave hit his ankles and propelled his body into a twirl.

Mary Lou Dismount

He looked like Mary Lou Retton performing a double twist with a somersault dismount.  Unfortunately, Dave only got half of the double twist and none of the somersault, before he landed, head and neck first, into the back of the wave.  The judges gave him an eight for height, a seven for difficulty and a two for execution, then deducted one point for being a smart-ass that day J 

I saw Dave the next day in the water and asked him about the dismount.  He slowly turned his body to me and said, “I learned not to land on my neck.” 

It is funny who the fluid ocean can make our muscles so stiff. 

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