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The
Surfer
The tale of “The Surfer” predates common speech and is therefore told in verse (translated):
The surf is never too big and never too walled
For the surfer who stands 7 feet tall
With arms like palm trees and the knowledge of surf
Nobody can back-paddle him on his turf
Saltwater and sand is all that he eats
Like no mortal man who needs water and meat
One day the swell came up, surfing hitting the pier
Everyone came in (came in out of fear)
The surfer took off and made the drop
A bottom turn and then a hit on the top
The wave then pitched and the surfer fell
Headed to the bottom and the end of our tale
-
Anon.
Found written on the bluffs of the famed Swamis point and translated by Rino.
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